FASHION AT ONE MOMENT AND AT THE NEXT

Lagos Fashion Week is one of the biggest fashion events in Africa. And it’s an honour to review a collection exhibited during the 2023 edition. Over sixty African fashion creatives showcased their designs on the runway. And Kadiju’s series titled ‘At One Moment, At the Next’ caught my interest.

Kadiju is known for producing garments with clean lines and intentional textile choices. The brand is recognised for designs that balance modern tailoring with thoughtful detailing.

The concept for At One Moment, At the Next is based on precision and strict quality standards. Fabrics were selected strategically to create a ‘wow’ effect upon first glance by onlookers. The overall theme of the collection targets designs that can trend through different seasons and generations.

Each piece would be analysed to see if this collection reflects the brand’s theme and shows technical excellence. I will also consider its contributions to the cohesion of Africa’s fashion industry.

This first outfit makes a bold statement as a women’s wear. It’s refined and neat, striking a balance between art and structure. The vivid yellow is suitable for all skin types.

The one-shoulder neckline is the most engaging feature of this dress. This style exposes the left shoulder, showing the wearer’s skin tone. Although this design may be popular with certain women, it won’t appeal to minimalists. The design should use a slim strap sleeve to achieve a stronger resolution.

At the sides, the fabric is horizontally folded into pleats that form extensions at the right side. They add extra detailing and serve as a covering for the right arm. The fabric manipulation is creative with its depth and dimension. But the pleats begin to smooth up from the knee region. While this is visually compelling, maintaining the pleats from the waist to the hem would look better.

This ankle length ocean-blue gown feels classy, but the saturation looks a bit dull. A brighter hue would have been a much better choice.

The outfit appears structurally uneven due to the awkward shoulder design. At both shoulders, the textile is extended to add detail. But the creative concept behind the outfit still feels underdeveloped. Maybe an extension that forms a bow at the back of the dress would be a more compelling option.

Bringing a balance to this piece’s silhouette is a low square neckline and the tight fit of the dress at the upper bodice. At the hips, a joining is made, changing the fabric’s rhythm. Also, medium-sized vertical pleats are formed and tailored flawlessly. Attention to detail is evident in the finishing of this piece, unlike the first.

This gown has a presence and is a daring design for Africa’s fashion world. Most African cultures produce garments with modesty in mind. But this design takes a different approach. The palette is plain, not vibrant but not silent either. The silver colour creates a subtle visual tension, enhancing its texture.

The micro mini length of this piece will definitely get the interest of the younger generation. But the majority of potential buyers might be concerned that the gown is too revealing. This can reduce its marketability. Mid-thigh is an alternative length for this piece as it will enhance styling with leggings or tight trousers.

Also, the square neckline allows for styling. The structured cut creates room for bold neckpieces and complements statement earrings. The fabric flows to form puff sleeves that define the shoulder line and add volume to the wearer’s shoulders. This regal design also gives the piece contemporary relevance.

So far, the outfits in this collection give room for bold accessories, which is a necessity in the African fashion industry. This inclusivity in Kadiju’s 2023 series is a great marketing strategy that positions the brand at the top.

Next outfits are two unique two-piece ensembles comprising a blouse and skirt. One is a short-sleeved white top and a blue mini skirt. The white blouse has folds around the chest, highlighting the bodice. But the top may seem too plain for bold dressers. I would recommend bow designs at the shoulders made from the skirt’s textile. This emphasises femininity and adds more saturation to the upper bodice.

The bubble skirt adds a playful feel to the collection. Its blue fabric was used to create the short skirt with gathered hems. The tucked ends form a round voluminous silhouette that hides the wearer’s contours. This stylish design makes the piece versatile and perfect for both casual and semi-formal events.

The other one is a pink two-piece made for summer. Its lightweight fabric makes it a perfect pair with a jacket. The straight neckline looks too restrictive. A better neckline would be a scoop or V-neckline. The addition of a net fabric around the neckline cut would also add more detail to the piece.

The mini skirt, however, is complex, and its asymmetrical feature is the selling point. Its slant length is well balanced. The left side has a micro length and the right side stops at the knee. A fish tail design on the right leg adds visual interest to the skirt.

Following the two pieces are these two extra expressive outfits. The first is a long-sleeved blue mid-thigh gown. This ballerina dress is perfect for semi-formal dinner events. The round neckline gives this piece a formal appearance. A plunge neckline would have been a better fit for this gown. It would have revealed more skin around the neck and accommodated bold neckpieces.

The fabric hugs the wearer tightly like a second skin at the upper bodice and waist. Kadiju’s twist design at the hips, however, disrupts that tight fit. The fabric is creatively crafted into folds that form a spiral style around the gown. And this design transforms organic movement into wearable architecture.

On the right side is a two piece that also serves as wearable construction with the blouse being the major highlight. Its organza textile is see-through, but the layers hide its transparency. The wide V-neckline and elbow length sleeve complement each other. The fabric extends down to the knees, adding drama that overshadows the skirt’s design. In my opinion, the extension was unnecessary. The absence of it will definitely elevate this piece and draw attention to the skirt.

The silver mid-thigh skirt is made from a shiny fabric. It features two layers that bounce with the wearer’s hips at every slight movement. The black strapped heels sharpen the look, keeping it grounded. The seam work reflects Kadiju’s integrity in its finishing.

Next on the runway were the males’ outfits. Two purple-themed pieces were first exhibited, embodying the collection’s title: At One Moment, At the Next. The vibrant hue draws perfect attention, making the wearers the cynosure of the room. It emphasises the fact that clothes make the loudest statement in formal meetings. With these pieces, Kadiju promises customers more than luxury and comfort; they also offer them a perennial trend style that every man must have in his wardrobe.

These outfits are timeless designs that are common styles slightly refined to create something new. I have a loose long-sleeved jacket with two large flap pockets on the left. The collar neckline sits around the neck, highlighting the straight shoulder cuts. Bronze buttons are used to decorate and hold the jacket together.

But the model left the buttons undone, revealing an inner shirt. The light blue and cream hues of the inner top complement the purple theme of the jacket and the trousers. However, the colour combination disrupts the garment’s otherwise refined structure. Also, the collar neckline of the inner top appears overwhelming. A more compelling choice would be a cream, white or black round-neck inner top. This is one of the moments where a designer’s best friend is simplicity.

The next outfit is a loose round neck sweatshirt. Its long sleeves end at the knuckles. The baggy trousers mirror this length, stopping at the wearer’s heel. It’s a common style in the 1980s, proving that some styles are timeless. And the choice of fabric reflects Sandra’s attention to detail. The textile is luxurious and soft to wear.

The final four outfits in Kadiju’s 2023 collection are masculine corporate outfits. A clear concept underlies each design as seen in the warm colours reinforced in the collection’s theme. Each fit affirms that fashion at one moment can indeed be the same at the next. The loose cut is a classic design that stays relevant every year. Sarah is not suggesting an idea with this style. Instead, she refined a style that is always fashionable. The first outfit is a sky-blue two piece suitable for formal events. The oversized trousers appear disorganised due to folds from the excess fabric. A slimmer cut would have been more ideal for a corporate outfit.

Next is a white two piece that can be worn for any occasion. There are no inconsistencies in this piece. From the fabric selection down to the tailoring, the team’s execution for this fit is nearly flawless. However, the length of the trousers should have stopped at the ankle because of the sensitive colour. Also, the same recommendation goes for the third piece. The final outfit in this collection is the same design, just with different hues used.

When this collection is compared to other fashion contemporaries like Lamisigo and Fruchè, Kadiju positions itself as a greater force for a movement that blends cultural preservation with modern design. Kadiju’s fashion style takes a more subtle and abstract approach, translating heritage through colour palettes, structure and conceptual narratives. The warm colour used in this picture mirrors African’s culture of exploring vibrant colours. Also, the experimental designs push fashion beyond style into conceptual art. The styles reflect modern urban aesthetics, giving a glimpse into the fashion industry’s future in Africa. I must commend the designers for creating these designs in the collection.

Conclusively, Kadiju wants to evolve within the global fashion scene. They also work hard at preserving their foundation in structured design and cultural authenticity. Although certain design concepts lack definition and feel understated. So, I believe that there is still room for improvement for the brand.

Abisola Omolade