BOLD, COLOURFUL, TIMELESS: THE COLLECTION THAT HAS IT ALL

Human beings have only three colour receptors in the eyes. And when you think about it, compared to the mantis shrimp that has twelve receptors, we are practically colour blind. But with its collections, Gaze of Luxury has raised the standard of how we perceive and understand colour in fashion. Even the mantis shrimp will be impressed.

 
Through this sustainable luxury brand, the founder Folafoluwa Afolabi has turned excess textiles into experimental pieces. He has been dedicated towards creating women’s wear that blends class and femininity since 2018. But in this 2022 collection, it seems he’s taking bolder moves that create trends in the fashion industry.

This outfit collection features a midi dress crafted from Ankara fabric. With a round neckline, the dress feels safe and endearing. It provides a modest and simple outlook that doesn’t seem to draw attention, but for good reasons.

Unlike the neckline, the sleeves get all the attention. Though short and sweet, they are exaggerated and voluminous. They seem like the wings of an eagle spread to show dominance rather than to fly. Such acute features give the dress an empowering feel, as if made for royalty.

However, the features that take home the prize for this outfit are probably the most easily underrated. Subtlety in fashion is not a sign of weak design, but of deep understanding of complex and functional art. For instance, in this dress, the bodice is fitted through the torso, featuring a rare but commendable nuance. Giving room just enough for a wider waistline structured to define body shape without the need for an external waistband.

The ‘not so thrilling’ aspect of the dress begins with the back details, which look uninspiring and monotonous. It feels like the designer lost all inspiration when designing this side of the outfit, or perhaps they didn’t have any to begin with. After installing a zipper for practicality, the back of the dress was left to fend for itself, and from the look of things, it starved to death. Even a slit or a ruffled detail might have saved the outfit from such a ‘tragi-design’.

The other flaws are perhaps less severe, but significant enough to trigger a pinched face. The length of the dress can be best described as lukewarm. That is, it’s neither long nor short. Such indecisive length could be suitable for other dresses, but for this one, it looks more like a rookie mistake. Like the sleeves, shortening the dress length would have provided a cleaner finish.

This mini dress also capitalises on an interesting array of colours. But it offers even more elements, starting with the sleeves, which are long and unceremoniously voluminous. Extending to the wrists, the sleeves sport beautifully patterned trims, giving the dress just the right traditional vibe only Ankara can give. These are, by far, the standout features of this outfit. And it would be unfair not to commend such a unique execution.

The dress has a relaxed bodice that works mainly for comfort, rather than as a feature. But one can hardly complain about this since comfort shouldn’t be a luxury in fashion. Overall, this outfit is concise, banking on simplicity and functionality to elevate its design. Even the hemline is straight and even, offering no risk that disrupts the dress’s succinct flow.

However, the round neckline is too wide. It leans away from the rapt and neat direction of the outfit. Instead of a firm and composed appearance, the neckline looks more like the gaping mouth of a drooling Pitbull. This often happens when designers lose concentration.

If this collection is a constellation, this short dress here is a star. It resembles a two-piece ensemble outfit. Such an elegantly wicked design borders on danger and experimentation, offering an electrifying combination.

The slanted off-shoulder neckline adds an imaginative and classy outlook to the outfit. The sense of danger the dress embodies is not only enhanced by the delicious neckline, but also sets the tone for other features that are even less bashful. The sleeves, for instance, are short and puffed, stopping just below the elbows. But the bubble-like effect hints at drama, keeping the dress interesting. The elastic cuffs further enhance the dramatic effect, but with a sense of finality. If the neckline is the beginning, and the puffed sleeves are the conflict, the cuffs are an anti-climax to a riveting drama.

The lower part of the dress is less impressive, unfortunately. While choosing such an aesthetically pleasing floral print is brilliant, it doesn’t offer much balance to the spicy spirit of the upper part. One can hardly feel the sense of adventure the outfit seems to promise. Apart from the stiff-looking folded pattern, the lower part lacks depth in the design. But if it does, it’s shallow at best. The overall design for this outfit is ingenious and perhaps offers the most exciting features of the collection. But when you promise to reach the Milky Way, but only land on the moon, much is left to be desired. And that’s exactly how it feels with this outfit.

Here are two dresses with similar features but appear in different colour patterns, much like the two sides of the same coin. These are short dresses reminiscent of the kimono, but with lively colours that bring a sheen to their design. With a couple of features, the designer skillfully blends Japanese influence with his African creativity.

Beginning with the modest V-shaped neckline, which exposes the upper chest area, it adds a refreshing dynamic to the outfit and the collection as a whole. Much better than the safe and pedestrian round neckline, it keeps the design tidy without losing its personality.

The sleeves are a joy to behold, from their flowy structure to their erratic shapes. They provide a breathtaking fluidity to the outfit. Capturing the complex kimono spirit in the sleeves demands high-level craft and precision to execute as flawlessly as is done in these outfits. This is not a fluke, as they are consistent in both dresses. This is mastery, and the designer deserves a pat on the back.

Still on the sleeves, they are long, wide and flared, giving them an exotic effect while also offering comfort. The back view further shows the creative depth they provide to the outfits. If these two dresses were buildings, the sleeves are the pillars that hold them together. In fact, one would be tempted to buy both dresses if they are found side by side on the rack. All thanks to the brilliance and diligence of the designer.

The bodice, like other outfits in this collection, is fitted to the chest area. But it also features an open-front overlay that drapes over the inner layer. It has a waist belt made of Ankara fabric, most of which is tied into a knot. While this feature looks dispensable, it pays important homage to the kimono. One doesn’t have to agree with it, but one can always respect and even live with it.

However, what might be tricky to respect or live with are the pockets. At first glance, it seems each dress has two pairs of pockets with flamboyant flaps. However, the first pair at the torso is decorative, while the ones at the waistline are functional. Yet, nothing saves them from looking tacky. It makes one wonder: are the flaps really necessary? It’s an easy no, since they resemble pairs of unoriginal ideas imposed on an immaculate design. Pockets are amazing, and there’s a definite need to add more of them to unconventional female wear; however, not at the detriment of a neat, minimalist philosophy that defines luxury in fashion. A pair of open-mouthed pockets would have nailed the design on the board of a masterpiece.

Overall, this is a glorious, top-notch collection, featuring a mix of trendy and thoughtful designs. It further solidifies Gaze of Luxury as a prospect of merit in the African fashion industry. Of course, the regality of the Ankara fabrics used in this collection adds a luxurious and innovative undertone that significantly contributes to its success. However, it would be unfair not to appreciate the crafts Folafoluwa Afolabi brought to the table. His ability to weave two or more fabrics together with invigorating twists captivates the mind.

With this collection, Folafolowa has proven himself to be a diplomat in art, the very ingredients needed to fulfil his vision in the sustainable luxury landscape. To take the Gaze of Luxury to the next level, he needs to pay attention to details, no matter how small they seem. In the end, it’s the little details that separate the small players from the big players in the fashion world. With better refinement, Folafolowa’s talents can join the leagues of the big boys in the coming years.

Abisola Omolade