Critic Review : Omolara Collection: A Symphony of Strength and Softness at AFWL25

Odunayo Ayo Ojo

The Africa Fashion Week London (AFWL25) played host to a myriad of talents, but few collections resonated with the profound emotional depth and cultural reverence as Temiloluwa Esther Fagbemi’s “Omolara Collection,” presented under her label MBW Fashion Addict. This wasn’t merely a showcase of garments; it was an ode—a heartfelt tribute to the designer’s mother and, by extension, to the indomitable spirit of African womanhood.

Fagbemi masterfully intertwines the traditional with the contemporary, most notably through her innovative use of aso-oke. This handwoven fabric, deeply rooted in Yoruba culture, is reimagined not as a relic of the past but as a vibrant, living textile that speaks to the present. The collection’s genius lies in its ability to juxtapose the regal texture of aso-oke with the delicate fluidity of hand-knitted yarns. These aren’t conflicting elements but complementary forces that mirror the multifaceted nature of women—their strength tempered by grace, their power underscored by gentleness. The architectural lines within the knitwear introduce an element of subtle tension, symbolizing the quiet resilience inherent in the feminine spirit.

The “Omolara Collection” transcends mere fashion; it is a profound statement on identity, culture, and the essence of womanhood. Fagbemi doesn’t just dress her muse; she empowers her, wrapping her in layers of heritage and innovation. In a world often quick to compartmentalize and simplify, this collection dares to celebrate the beautiful complexities of being African and female. It’s a reminder that true strength lies not in unyielding hardness but in the ability to navigate the world with both steel and silk.