MALIKO ON A BOLD STRIDE TOWARDS SIMPLICITY

Sometimes, it appears obvious that accessories such as handbags and shoes are mere spectacles in the fashion industry. But with a refreshing twist, some designers have begun to open their eyes to the real value of accessories. Although this new wave of attention is relatively a drop of water in the ocean, there are clear signs that foretell a rising interest from skilled designers. This is important for fashion faithful’s and enthusiasts because they often want to express themselves in various ways without overdoing it. Therefore, tailored handbags and shoes give new outlets for people to express themselves without restrictions or relying too much on outfits.

Three-course meals in the restaurant industry usually comprise the appetisers, the main course and the dessert at the end. Often, the dessert is treated less like a finale, but as an indulgence that can either be entertained or discarded. This is the same reality for accessories in the fashion industry. Industry experts and veterans often see shoes as an afterthought rather than an integral part of the fashion process. But Maliko is one brand that is ready to disrupt this mindset and oppose the status quo. Maliko was founded back in 2018 and for the past seven years, they have built a reputation for using leather to produce minimalist footwear and handbags. While other fashion brands focus on utilising fabrics, Maliko have been working to master leather to create stylistic accessories that shine as much as outfits.

Using cool colours and soft tones, they have been able to consistently produce pieces that make bold cultural statements while elevating African heritage. Looking at the latest collection, I’d be examining the new designs that are set to unlock new perspectives in how the industry perceives and appreciates accessories. While handbags and shoes can add new dimensions or layers to outfits, they also need to perform specific functions that make them useful on their own. For instance, a handbag must be portable while also having the capability to hold different items. And shoes must be able to shield the foot, protecting the toes and soles from any harm. So, I will be reviewing the pieces in the SS25 collection based on how each piece balances minimalist aesthetic with functionality.

The first pieces in the collection are a pair of black sandals showcased with a small black shoulder bag. At first glance, one might be tempted to dismiss these items as regular accessories. But black colour offers a different range of possibilities and combinations. Apart from the loose white trousers they were displayed with, the bag and sandals can be combined with different outfits, even when they come in different colours. For instance, the sandals can blend well with tight blue trousers or even red ankle-length gowns.

However, while the sandals and the bag can blend with any outfits, they have no distinct features to set them apart in the market. In the marketplace, it’s a cliché that perception is the defining factor in getting ahead of the competition. The same is true within the fashion industry. Unfortunately, the plain black leather design of these accessories is more likely to be lost on the racks along with other brands. Perhaps a simple feature such as an ornamental design on top of the sandal or the shoulder bag could have shown individuality. This is even more important when you understand that fashionists often prefer accessories that make them standout, rather than blend with the crowd.

Here we have a bright green mule with a short, bulky heel. Unlike the previous piece, this item takes a less ambitious route in terms of functionality. Its well-known mules are not as common as they used to be in the 80s and 90s, but they still provide that distinctness in appearance while carrying out their functionality reliably. This lemon green mule will pair well with other outfits and accessories that come in white, black, grey, gold, beige and even lavender. What this means is that many combinations are still possible based on the colour choice alone.

However, possible combinations shrink when considering other factors such as the type of outfits. For instance, combining a mule with corporate wear like a suit and skirts or trousers is a certain recipe for fashion disaster. The design, instead, would be better suited to long, loose dresses and traditional wear. Additionally, the designers didn’t add a clear-cut feature to give it a twist. So, that means the design might not appeal to many people, including younger consumers who prioritise looking modern rather than looking exotic. I recommend that the shape of the mule’s heel should be modified to a round shape to look more contemporary.

The orange, green, and teal handbags with stitched motifs are among the more inventive pieces in this collection. The stitching resembles topographic lines, offering depth and individuality to their essence. The orange bag stands out most; its contrast stitching lends it some character. The green bag benefits from its elevated presentation, while the teal version provides a calmer option for those who prefer subtlety and coolness.

However, the design layout of each handbag feels too rigid. While the bags might be light and handy, they don’t have enough elasticity to allow for dynamic handling. For instance, the handbags can only be held with the fingers and cannot be held with the arm without some discomfort. I would recommend that the designers consider a durable but more elastic handle for these sets of bags. It would ensure people can carry it without tiring out a part of their body.

The new set of handbags I have here are not too dissimilar to the previous. The only remarkable difference is their heights. The previous ones were long in length but short in height, while this set is compact, but taller. This ensures deeper depth for these bags, compared to the previous one. It has the same colour and topographic lines, and even the same handle. Beyond that, the stitching looks more pronounced. The lines seem more like maps, rather than just lines. This gives them a more cultural undertone that aligns well with the market. As an accessory, they will be suited for high-function events and galas.

But the same problem persists with the handle. Being too rigid, these bags are prone towards wearing down the wrists, especially if carried for a long time. A more elastic handle would remove this risk without hurting the intended aesthetics.

This is a pair of black leather slip-ons. They are sleek and have a square toe that feels contemporary. Their craftsmanship is quite evident, and the shoes show a quiet sort of confidence. By the look of them, comfort seems assured and they can pair well with both casual and traditional outfits. They are the sort of footwear that is worn for relaxation.

But I wonder if the design is versatile enough to pair with formal outfits. While it can be adorned with corporate wear by eccentric individuals, it might struggle to break into the market on a mainstream level. Also, the design somehow lacks a sense of subtlety that distinguishes from other designs on the racks.

The reddish-brown sandal demonstrates thoughtful artistry. For instance, the linear black stitching adds interest without overwhelming the design. While the imprinted branding on the footbed is subtle, avoiding overt logos. Its simplicity is its strength, and the sandal feels versatile enough for casual wear.

Nevertheless, the reddish tone may also limit versatility as it clashes with certain outfits. A good example would be an aso-oke or adire with many bright and competing colours.

Last but not least is a black slip-on shoe. It has a textured stitching that makes it distinctive, giving it character beyond a standard slip-on. Like the previous footwear, the embossed branding is discreet, but if there’s one thing that is clear in the design, it is the workmanship.

Yet, the shoe itself feels slightly heavy in silhouette. It lacks that delicate touch that makes minimalist designs tick. But a slimmer profile could have offered the needed balance to the bold stitching.

In general, this is a successful collection. It showcases the minimalist ideas that makes Maliko an outstanding accessory brand capable of providing designs that support modern tailoring. The most discernible motif of this collection is the delicate use of colours to tell African stories. Instead of loud and bright colours, The brand decided to use cool and soft colours that are eyes on the eyes, but not ignorable. This provides their productions with a sense of craftsmanship that alludes to cultural creativity and experimentation. Therefore, this leaves bigger room for designers to explore different lenses of designs within the African context.

After examining each item in the collection, I’m reminded of other experimental labels currently existing in the African fashion landscape. For instance, Muji Lagos or Zashadu offer the same commercial blend with functionality that is extensively explored in SS25. More so, their elevated use of colour is similar to what I have seen from RD Soles and Bottega Veneta over the years. However, Maliko combines its flair for storytelling with soft tones to enable their designs to be accessible.

This is definitely a worthwhile collection. It adds to Maliko’s credibility as a brand that creates accessories that blend with the new wave of fashion. SS25 should be seen as a meaningful contribution to the growing tastes of contemporary tailoring. And Maliko have proven their competence in moving to a fresh dispensation within the industry.

Abisola Omolade