AYAH’s Velvet & Roses
In Velvet & Roses, Ebimobowei Daukoru Ayah takes familiar elements of formal dressing and subtly destabilises them.
During London fashion week SS26 showcase, the collection places velvet, floral detailing and sleeveless construction at the centre of AYAH’s latest exploration of contemporary menswear.
The starting point remains recognisable: the suit.
Rather than dismantling tailoring completely, Ayah retains enough of its structure to make each deviation noticeable. Jackets remain sharply constructed through the torso, but the absence of sleeves changes their proportions immediately. Exposed arms create a visual break between the formality of the fabric and the informality of the silhouette.
Velvet adds another layer of contradiction. Historically associated with luxury and occasionwear, it has a visual weight that could easily make the suits feel overly ceremonial. Ayah counters that heaviness through the sleeveless construction, allowing the body to interrupt the richness of the fabric.
The colour choices reinforce the effect.
Deep burgundy feels dramatic without becoming excessively loud, while the green variation provides a cooler counterpoint. Under changing light, velvet naturally shifts in depth and tone, meaning relatively simple silhouettes acquire movement without requiring extensive surface decoration.
The rose motif is the collection’s most overtly romantic gesture.
Placed against structured menswear, it deliberately challenges the conventional language of the suit. Yet Ayah does not appear interested in turning menswear into womenswear. Instead, the flower functions as another material within a masculine wardrobe.
That distinction matters.
The most successful pieces in Velvet & Roses are those where the balance between tailoring, velvet and floral detailing remains controlled. Where the garment is given space, the contrast becomes more persuasive. More embellishment would not necessarily produce a stronger result.
With Velvet & Roses, AYAH does not provide a definitive answer. Instead, Ebimobowei Daukoru Ayah proposes that strength and softness can occupy the same garment.
By Ruth Osime
