SS25 COLLECTION: A TASTE OF AFRI-CULTURE

Each year, African fashion takes an all-time high because there are fashion labels bent on pushing the needle behind the scenes. One of such label is Cynthia Abila. Cynthia Otiyo-Abila is a Nigerian fashion brand that is very passionate about African roots and fabric storytelling.

Cynthia Abila is a brand primarily for women’s wear. Its mission is to combine individuality and culture all in one timeless piece. The brand creates revolutionary wear that gives a perfect feminine appeal. In recent years, the brand has created several collections. Amongst them is its SS25 Collection: “Understated”

Understated is a collection born from the need to fuse legacy fabrics and cultural logos/ elements. This is evident in its array of endearing colours and designs. Some of the signature features in the collection include traditional appliques, tailored coats, wide-leg pants, bralettes and many more. Besides this, the collection promotes self-expression and inclusivity. Here are a few of its timeless designs:

Strutting down the runway is the first dress in the collection. It is a sleeveless midi-maxi dress with various interesting features. One of them is the contrast in the colour scheme used. With white being the main colour of the piece, the subtle touches elevated the overall look of the attire. Another detail in this piece is the well-lined cupped bustier and the strapped ‘show-back’. These are both contemporary features that speak to modern trends.

On the other hand, there are two most intriguing characteristics of this outfit. One is the symbol sitting at the middle of the dress, and the other is the raffia bottom. The symbol on the dress looks like the local gong, a musical instrument primarily associated with the Igbo tribe in Nigeria. The raffia or straw-like addition at the bottom is also like the materials used to create African local mats and baskets of old. These two traditional features and the first two modern features created a balance. To latch in style, the piece was accompanied by headgear and earrings that matched the main look.

The major element in this attire is its Afrocentric feel. This makes this attire well in tune with the likes of Fruche and Orange culture, brands that have a knack for utilising African facets in dressmaking. Additionally, the perfect balance between the traditional and contemporary details in the outfit makes it appealing to both conventional and trendy consumers. This, in turn, increases its market value.

Despite the interesting intricacies of this attire, it is not an everyday attire. It would only fit into special occasions or festive occasions. This lump side slashes down the influx of people willing to get it. To remedy this, the designers may have to consider reducing the opening at the back or including actual sleeves.

The second dress is a bright coloured mix. It is a button-down gown coat made primarily with an orange fabric that looks like an Aso-Oke. This material is paired with multicoloured fabrics used at strategic points to enhance the attire’s aesthetics. Like many coats, this coat features a collar. However, the double-peak label of this attire is lined with the multicoloured fabric, giving it a distinctive look. The unique inclusion is equally made on the left side of the dress.

The dress also comprises two long sleeves, faux pockets and perfectly lined red buttons. However, the bottom is the highlight of the piece. It’s a flare of long strings that adds style to the piece when in motion.

The outfit’s versatility gives it a good market standing as it can fit almost anywhere, depending on how it is styled. This, on a broader scale, increases its global appeal. In comparison, the idea of using African fabric in an original Western concept like a suit can be given equal value as popular suit brands like Kente Gentlemen.

As a recommendation, the designers could consider including more pieces of clothing to make the dress a three-piece. This would increase the quality and valuation of the attire.

The third of the collection is a stylish three-piece set. This outfit is made with a semi-thick tie-dye fabric. The splash of blue on the white fabrics creates an interesting look and serves as the main highlight of the wear.

The set starts with a coat jacket comprising a double peak lapel, two long sleeves, and white buttons. To close the gaps of modesty, a bra tube is infused into the set as innerwear. This tube takes the blue minimal colour of the attire, giving somewhat of a balance to the contrast of colours. On the bottom is a stylish wide-leg trouser starting with a waistband. It also has two wide inseam pockets on both sides.

The combination of sophisticated colour scheme and specific attributes makes the piece particularly suited for special occasions and formal settings. The intriguing texture of the fabric also adds uniqueness without overdoing it. The perfect finishing makes the piece suitable for luxury fashion houses and runway shows. These qualities place the attire firmly in the premium tier, suitable for high‑end markets.

There is no doubt that the set is alluring; however, the brand might need to create variations of inner wear for individuals who dislike bodily exposure.

The fourth outfit takes a more masculine turn. It’s a casual matching set consisting of a button-down shirt and a simple pair of pants. Like many similar matching sets, the outfit is created from the same black crepe fabric. However, what stands out the most is the painting inscriptions done on the shirt. Taking a closer look at them, you discover that they bear symbolic African representations, such as the musical instruments and the sailing man in the painting. These features combined give that attire an aura of wearable art.

When compared to other contemporary fashion concepts, this piece aligns with graffiti-inspired fashion, which encourages wearable art. This is because of the colourful painting littered across the front of the shirt. In a way, the piece is also in perfect sync with African fashion brands like Vudoh. Despite these similarities, the garment maintains its own distinction, which makes it suitable for creative performance wear. However, the simple nature of this wear also places it in global markets that celebrate expression.

Overall, the set is commendable. But as a recommendation, the brand should consider using a slightly thicker fabric for the pants to create a sense of firmness.

The last of the collection is a simple maxi gown made with an olive-coloured fabric. The dress starts with a round neckline, followed by cap sleeves. However, unlike simpler cap sleeves, this one has more volume. This tweak makes the sleeve look like an umbrella over the shoulders.

At the mid-waist is another highlighting feature. The designer included a keyhole feature that is unlike many. Naturally, keyholes are shapes cut in a dress. However, on this piece, the keyhole was made by creating a twisted knot at the front of the garment before sewing. This made for an exposed midsection on both ends. Lastly, to give that final touch, appliques were added. These appliques are like joint strings usually found in traditional African masquerade wear. In essence, the addition gave a sense of Afrocentrism to the piece.

The design philosophy leans more toward rich African heritage in its simplest form. This makes it especially suitable for African or global markets that appreciate culture. When likened with other brands that are passionate about spreading the ‘African way’ to fashion, it shares quality with the likes of Lisa Folawiyo Studio.

However, while this design is a good one, the side openings can be reconsidered. This is especially in relation to the market group that is sensitive to skin exposure.

In conclusion, the SS25 collection is a rich platter of colours and designs. But above all, the brand ensured that each design brings in a sense of Afrocentrism. This alone makes the brand industry relevant, as it aids in restructuring global aesthetics. This, in turn, boosts the African Fashion value in the global scene. The world of fashion awaits what is next to come from the brand.

Abisola Omolade