Loss of Classical Elegance

Lagos and some ancient cities in Nigeria are dotted with rare 19th and early 20th century architectural masterpieces that earn a right to be listed as national monuments. In Europe, such important buildings become part of the country’s national heritage, which governments preserve and guard conscientiously. When restored to their original designs and stately beauty, they become must-see places that tourists visit regularly. Sadly, that is not the case in Nigeria where more than nine-tenths of the old colonial buildings are completely run down. BENNETT OGHIFO who visited the sites and families still living in some of these once charming and elegant buildings in Lagos, reports

It is standard practice in the western world to preserve old stately buildings as part of a nation’s rich cultural heritage for posterity. Governments list such building and homes, for which a national trust is set up for their maintenance and restoration to their elegant past. In all cases, these building become tourist attractions, even when people continue to live in them. In some other instances, after undergoing extensive rehabilitation which tries to retain their historical design and decor, some of the buildings are converted to hotels or restaurants.

But in Nigeria, similar buildings built in the 19th and early turn of the 20th century have suffered neglect and been left to rot away. There are rows and rows of these regal buildings, built with intricate facades and designs, wooden shutters, French doors and windows and classical detail lying in ruin across the country. Lagos, particularly the Island, Yaba and Ebute-Metta areas has a very large number of several once elegant homes and buildings.

OLD ISLAND CLASSICS

However, a few of the descendants of the original owners have made limited attempts to maintain their property or to keep the memory of the buildings alive. Even in ruins, these buildings retain their charm and history that remains apparent to anyone, not only to lovers of classical architecture. Most of these old building, many of which are over a hundred years old, are interesting structures that tell different stories about a time, the early elite and gentry, and the money bags of yesteryears.
Some families have made an attempt at restoring their old property by modernizing them with a feeble attempt at retaining some of the old elegance. Typical examples include the Multi Radiant Plaza, the Fowler Rufai Ajala family houses on Bambose and Oshodi Streets and at the corner-piece of Bamgbose and Glover streets, respectively. While other families keep the original façades and poise of the building enlivening it with splash of paint when cash permits; like Igbore House at the junction of Bambose and Glover Streets, which still retains some of its elegance. Its huge wooden door with concentric carvings, lend a sense of the family that built and resided in it in the early part of the twentieth century.

Most of these buildings are of Brazilian heritage built by the first set of returning slaves from the South American country. While some around Sangrouse Market and Tapa Street in Lagos Island have a sprinkling of European-type architecture that were built by the Lagosian elite and wealth bourgeois class. This touch of graceful architecture can also be seen in several public buildings on the Island built by the colonial administration, particularly on both sides of Broad Street and the Marina, where a row of them stands.

These buildings house the Federal Government’s old Press, where it used to print official gazettes and other documents; the Federal Dental Centre; the old State House which, today, serves as the residence of the Lagos State Governor; Glover Hall; and Kakawa Magistrate Court, built in 1925. Broad Street is also the home to a charming government building which served for decades as the Federal Office of Statistics. The building now has the Centre for Black and African Art as its new occupants.
Kakawa Street also hosts the stately well-maintained and beautiful Da Rhoca family house. An 84 year-old lady who lives off Commercial Avenue, Yaba, but didn’t want her identity disclosed, let out a tiny joy-cry when she heard Da Rhocha’s house on Kakawa still stands and remains in excellent condition. “Oh, Walter’s house is still there? That Baba wore bangles and used to call us young girls when we went by the house,” she cackled.

Another old masterpiece is house No. 6 at Tinubu Square. It is an amazing piece of work built with lovely classical window panes and fearsome looking gargoyles in front of it that remind you of old stately homes in England. Unfortunately, the building which has been in the Fernandez family for ages and stands directly opposite the water fountain, is completely rundown and a relic occupied by traders who certainly have no understanding of it historical significance. The building was where ace highlife musician, Victor Olaiya, once sold musical equipment. It was maintained by the government through National Museum and Monuments, but has been left to rot away. There is also a square behind Broad Street, where big politicians met in the pre-independence days. Like No. 6 Tinubu Square, the square is in dire need of restoration.