Sacred Silhouettes and the Luxury of Meaning: The Ideal Craftsman and the Art of Ancestry

Dimeji Alara

Luxury, at its highest register, has never been about excess alone. It is about intention, craftsmanship, and the confidence to tell a story that does not beg for validation. The Five, presented for SS26, operates firmly within this philosophy, offering a collection that treats Yoruba cosmology not as inspiration, but as intellectual foundation.

Each look unfolds like a chapter. Ogun’s grey wool jacket, adorned with miniature metal swords cascading down one sleeve, transforms warfare into ornamentation without diluting its gravity. The boxy silhouette is balanced by thoughtful details; the elasticated waist, free cuffs, and half-collared V-neck ensuring the garment retains elegance rather than slipping into theatricality. The trousers, with their giant forward pleats and adjustable waist hardware, embody a modern understanding of luxury: flexibility, longevity, and form.

Obatala’s ensemble leans into ceremonial authority. The cropped jacket with exaggerated shoulders commands space, while horn buttons function as both embellishment and symbolism. Paired with checkered wide-leg trousers in British wool, the look achieves a stately drape that feels timeless. The deep V-neck, unfinished edges, and unlined construction introduce fragility into power; a nuanced reading of purity that feels deeply contemporary.

Orunmila’s off-white kimono set is an exercise in quiet opulence. The fluid silhouette, cowry-adorned sleeve splits, and generous proportions speak to wealth as abundance rather than accumulation. There is a softness here that feels intentional, not passive. The cowries, symbols of peace and prosperity, anchor the look in cultural specificity while elevating it into the realm of modern luxury.

Esu’s black cotton two-piece disrupts the serenity with precision. The red satin pocket flap slices through the darkness, a sharp visual punctuation. Balloon sleeves and trousers exaggerate volume, creating a silhouette that feels alive, unpredictable. This is confusion rendered elegant chaos with a tailored edge.

Throughout the collection, fabric choices remain disciplined. Wool and cotton are used not for nostalgia, but for their ability to hold shape, create drape, and respond to movement. The silhouettes are oversized yet intentional, ceremonial yet wearable.

The Five does not explain itself away. It trusts the wearer to understand or to learn. In doing so, it reclaims fashion as a site of cultural authorship, spiritual dialogue, and refined storytelling. This is not trend-driven design. It is legacy-minded work; garments that do not just dress the body, but honour belief, history, and imagination.